Posting Sabbatical

Back in (x?) months

On sabbatical. See Extreme Birder site http://patzcuarobirder.blogspot.com/
or for Birding Light http://mypatzcuaro.blogspot.com/

The Monarch Butterflies

Although not about avifauna, this report should nonetheless interest birders:

Thursday, November 18, 2010

Three of us made the drive to Angangueo today with the intent of seeing Monarch butterflies at Sierra Chincua. (It was about 148 miles from Patzcuaro's LaEstacion area to Sierra Chincua.)Everything worked fine, especially the new highway that's nearly finishedbetween Maravatio and Irimbo. That is, until we arrived in downtown Angangueo....there we ran into lots of soldiers and local police.

My friends who are visiting from Seattle were a little taken aback by so many soldiers in combatgear and I, too, thought it a bit odd. At the top of the hill, we saw a military helicopter flying overhead and were stopped by three police/military patrols. And, the road into Sierra Chincua was barricaded. Now this was definitely leaving us with an uncomfortable feeling. For whatever reason, the officials at the turnoff into the reserve let us proceed; however, at the gate where one normally pays an entrance fee, we weretold we couldn't go further. Sensing our befuddlement, that's when someone probably broke all security rules: He told us President Calderone was participating in a special event and we couldn't enter the reserve until 1 PM. So we had to figure out something to do for nearly 3 hours.

Thankfully today was market day in town, and we were sated with delicious freshly made blue corn tortillas filled with a combination of bifsteak, beans, cheese, and great salsa. (Are you reading this Don y Dona Las Cuevas??......you would love them and at 7 pesos, the price couldn't be beat!) At 12:45 we headed back to Sierra Chincua, where we had to wait at the entrance. Maybe 10 minutes later, the President's caravan of vehicles exited and we wereallowed into the reserve. Well, lo and behold, the ratty structures of the past are gone, and today's event was the inauguration of several new buildings for little restaurants, trinket shops, new bathrooms with American standard toilets,and a huge salon for educational purposes. We were unable to find Don Pancho, an elder of the ejido who has guided me to the butterflies in the past. Instead, we met Noe Valdez who agreed to leave the festivities to guide us to the nearest colony. Imagine my surprise to learn that he's participating in a certificate program to be a bird guide. Perfecto. Although Noe doesn't speak English, he spoke slow enough that I could understand nearly all of his Spanish.

The weather was lovely - not cold or windy. Our walk to the colony took us through patches of green meadow and through oyamel-pine forest. The trail was well groomed and was a gentle climb, not the grunt I've done twice at Rosario. Be that as it may, our hearts were beating and we were somewhat out of breath. Brief stops along the way allowed us torest. New interpretive signs provide important information about theb butterflies, in Spanish and English.When we arrived at the colony (30-40 minutes), we had an amazing experience. We were alone with trees full of butterflies. Noe showed my friends how to sex the butterflies. We were very close to the butterflies; they were flying all around and momentarily landing on us. Because no one else was in the vicinity, wecould hear the butterflies' wing-flapping. This was truly a mystical time with Mother Nature.

While some individuals recommend that the best time to visit the reserve is in January or February when many more butterflies are present, I maintain that it's worthwhile to visit early in the season when hordes of visitors are not there. Soon the area will be roped off and whispering is mandated. It's dustier and hawkers are assertive. Visiting a Monarch butterfly sanctuary is a must-see thing to do. I just wanted everyone to have another perspective. I definitely recommend Noe or Don Pancho as local guides. I doubt you could do better...

from Georgia, Arocutin

From Lake Patzcuaro to Long Point Bird Observatory

With her permission, I am posting some good news communicated by Georgia Conti, founder of the Patzcuaro Birding Club. Hugo Valencia, of our Lake Patzcuaro area, has received a scholarship for advanced training at the prestigious Long Point Bird Observatory in Ontario, Canada. I have birded when Hugo was assisting birders. He has a keen eye and ear, and is very helpful and nice.

Hugo and Georgia assist birders at La Estación, a good site near Erongaricuaro.

Hugo with his youngest daughter.

Email from Georgia Conti:

Many of you know that I have been working this past year with Victor "Hugo" Valencia, a local birder from Erongaricuaro. He is an exceptional birder and I couldn't have a better partner in the field.

We recently received news that he has been selected one of three individuals from Latin America to receive free training from the Long Point Bird Observatory in Ontario. His program begins mid-August and ends early November. While in Ontario, he will receive advanced training in bird banding and data management techniques and other field techniques related to bird research and conservation. Since Mexico is recognized as being an important wintering area for Canadian songbirds in Latin America, this training has practical benefits to Canadian researchers and conservationists. This program is also supported by the Government of Canada, in particular Environment Canada's Canadian Wildlife Service. Both Hugo and I hope his training will enhance the field work being done by Dra. Laura and Dr. Fernando Villasenor Gomez at the Universidad de Michoacan in Morelia.

While all of his air travel costs, course training, and all living expenses in Canada are covered, he will need financial assistance to support his wife Lupe and two young daughters, Mariana (5 yrs) and Lucia (6 months) in his absence, and to pay for his visa. Moreove, it would be nice to send him north with a little bit of pocket money. so he is not penniless. I am willing to underwrite some of his expenses, but more importantly, Hugo wants to do as much as he can to pay for his training. This note is to ask that if you have any odd jobs on the back burner, he is looking to work full-time between now and the time he leaves. He's a master tile-setter, [can] repair refrigerators and air-conditioners (he can fix most appliances!), has a green thumb, does interior and exterior painting, and is able to handle most plumbing and electrical work. There is no job big or small that he will turn down. Oh, I almost forgot: he's fluent in English.... And, he knows the difference between mediocre work and that of a master craftsman, not a common talent hereabouts.

This is a chance of a life-time for him. Some of you have added life birds to your list or have experienced many rare sightings in the field due to his skills. If you've birded with him, no doubt you will agree that no one sees or hears birds as soon as he can! He's a patient and exceptional teacher as well. If you don't have a job for him but you are willing to donate funds on his behalf, please write to me privately. I have set up an account for deposits on his behalf. Nothing is too little or too big.

Let's [congratulate] and support a local birder!

Georgia Conti
Arocutin on Lake Patzcuaro
http://www.patzcuarobirder.blogspot.com/

Birding Cerro Burro

It was a beautiful day, but not a lot of bird activity. The best birds of the day for me were very good looks at the Golden-browed Warbler (a real skulker) and a boisterous, chattering pair of busy Grey-barred Wrens.

My Winter Buddy

Love this little guy (Wilson's Warbler), who loves to flit around my garden at La Jacaranda in winter. This is a cold winter for Patzcuaro, but it sure beats winter in El Norte! This pajarito knows why he headed south.

Arroyo Frio Delivers Again

Two lifers yesterday! Dance a jig! Great looks! Beautiful birds!

Rusty-crowned Ground-sparrow

Banded Wren

Six of us took off from Patzcuaro for a Sunday birding trip. At the first stop outside of Opongio, on the road up to Santa Juana, we got good looks at the Mountain Trogon. There were a number of other nice birds. South of Tacambaro, Rio Corucha was not as productive as usual. Arroyo Frio gave me "eyefuls" of two lifers. Can't beat that. The Rusty-crowned Ground-sparrow is endemic to western and southwestern Mexico. The species occurs both in the Sierra Madre Occidental range, and the Cordillera Neovolcanica mountain belt. The Banded Wren is a beautiful bird--but then, aren't they all.

We had lunch in Tacambaro, and then visited a gifted local artist to see linocut and woodblock prints. That was a special treat.

There were Georgia, Thomas, Tracy, Glen, Steve and Janet. Once again, viva the Patzcuaro Birding Club.

Patzcuaro's the place.

Birding La Estación in Erongaricuaro

Yesterday the Patzcuaro Birding Club again visited our easily accessible La Estación site. We all benefited from the competent skills of Georgia Conti and Hugo. I enjoyed an eyeful of many good birds, including the Hybridized Towhee, Blackthroated Grey Warbler, Spotted Wren, Slate-Throated Redstart and especially a long look at the Tufted Flycatcher. The company was good, and the wild zarzamoras (blackberries) juicy.

After La Estación we stopped at Hugo's for brilliant displays of hummingbirds at feeders. The Calliope dazzled us with the iridescent display of its violet gorget; the Broadbill darted in and out; numerous Rufous and Allen's hummers displayed their showy gorgeous colors as they darted, perched and hovered in good light. It was particularly useful to see numerous Rufous and Allen's Hummingbirds at the same time in the same place. The beautiful Allen's was a Lifer for me.

We topped our viewing off with the tasty crunchy sandwiches and crisp fresh pizzas at Testarelli's on the Eronga plaza.

Live in Patzcuaro.

Backyard Birds - Patzcuaro

Hooded Grosbeak (Photo on flickr by Jorge Montejo)

Backyard birding at La Jacaranda in Patzcuaro is a pleasure, epecially since we eat most meals on the back veranda with binoculars and bird books at hand. At this time of the year, when it is very dry, many birds come to the water we put out. The cool and green summer rainy season should soon kick in; it is overdue.

My best yard bird yesterday was an endemic Hooded Grosbeak. We ran into a friend when out walking today, and he said he just had a Sparkling-Tailed Woodstar in his backyard here in town.

Patzcuaro living.

Red-Headed Tanager

Watching my backyard birds in Patzcuaro is always a pleasure, and the variety, the plumage and the activity in Spring is a special treat. Yesterday, a Red-Headed Tanager with its knock-out colors was my best bird of the day. It sat conveniently still for me in the fresno tree.

Bird from your house in Patzcuaro.

"Birds of Patzcuaro" in San Miguel de Allende

On 17 March 2009, master birder Georgia Conti presents "Birds of Patzcuaro" to the members of Aubudon in San Miguel de Allende, Mexico.

"Red warbler. Blue Mockingbird. Black-polled yellowthroat. White-tailed hawk. Mountain Trogon. Squirrel cuckoo. Painted redstart. Russet-crowned motmot. Green kingfisher. White-striped woodcreeper. Cinnamon-bellied flowerpiercer. Berylline hummingbird. This is a short list of the birds found in the Pátzcuaro area.

...Georgia Conti, founder of the Pátzcuaro Birding Club, will present a lecture about the avian wonders of Pátzcuaro and its environs. The lecture will be accompanied by beautiful photographs, many by San Miguel resident Wayne Colony. San Miguel’s Audubon Society is planning a field trip to Pátzcuaro in the near future, and this lecture may entice you to join up to see these birds in person."


Live in Patzcuaro.

Wow! Look at This Bird

We get to observe a colorful species like this one every March, to usher Spring into Patzcuaro.
Spring Display

Your house in Patzcuaro.

Patzcuaro Birding: Bright-Rumped Attila

There was a good look at a Bright-Rumped Attila at Cerro Hueco near Tacambaro last week, by Master Birder Georgia Conti and Hugo, whom Georgia is mentoring. Hugo is turning out to be a great birder, and seems to know where many interesting species can be sighted. The region around Lake Patzcuaro continues to provide good birding.

View Larger Map

You, too, can live or vacation in charming, colonial Patzcuaro.

Folk Art for Birders

Detail from a hand-woven wall hanging

When not out seeking birds in the field, you may want to seek out bird motifs in the folk art that abounds on the cluster of plazas in the center of Pátzcuaro. See Parvada de Pájaros.

Patzcuaro: Defining Birders in Spanish

These are aficionados de aves.

This is a pajarero.

The Legend of the Egret

Bi-lingual Text

The Origin of Lake Pátzcuaro and the Egret
Based on the Purhépecha Legend
Tracy Novinger

In ancient times on a dark night, before migrant peoples had evolved into the splendor of the Purhépecha nation, an enormous ball of fire appeared in the skies. It grew and grew and then hurtled down into the mountains of the region that is now known as Michoacán. The earth shook mightily, terrifying the inhabitants of the fertile valley where the fireball crashed. At the place of its impact, a spring of crystal clear water gushed up and filled a large area, thus forming Lake Pátzcuaro and its islands.

On the island called Yunuén there came to live a respected noble who had a daughter named Hapunda. The people of Yunuén were devoted to the Princess Hapunda because of her beauty and her sweet nature. Hapunda devoted much time to contemplation of the beautiful lake, conversing intimately with each ripple on its mirror-like surface. The lake was the center and king of its pueblos. The princess and the lake became so close that Hapunda made a promise to the lake never to leave it.

One afternoon the smooth surface of the lake became very agitated at the crossing of a boat from the shore to the island of Yunuén. This vessel carried an old and repugnant warrior who approached Hapunda’s father first with rich gifts and then with threats to ask for his daughter’s hand in marriage. Even though his life was in danger, Hapunda’s father replied that it was up to his daughter to choose her own destiny. He would not force her into such a marriage. But in order to save her father’s life, Princess Hapunda accepted the unwonted proposal.

As preparations for the marriage were made, the princess wept a torrent of tears into the waters of the lake. Hapunda recounted her sorrows at the thought of leaving the lake and her fear that she would soon no longer have even her elderly father to protect her. The voice of the lake rose from the deep, reminding Hapunda of her promise and offering her a way to stay with the lake forever. The voice told Hapunda to dress herself in white and on a moonlit night to throw herself into the lake’s waters.

So on a night illumined by a large silver moon, Princess Hapunda took a boat out to the center of the lake that lay as still as a mirror. There she plunged into the watery depths where she became a guardian of the lake for all time. A ray of light from the moon beamed down to where Hapunda had entered the water and from this place emerged a large bird totally covered with white feathers. This bird was called the egret and it always flew to Hapunda’s favorite place by the water on Yunuén. Today the egrets return to the island of Yunuén every evening as day turns into night.

It is said that the day that the egrets disappear, so too will Lake Pátzcuaro.

Origen del Lago de Pátzcuaro y las Garzas

Según la Leyenda Purhépecha
Tracy Novinger

En la noche obscura de un tiempo lejano, antes de que los pueblos migrantes se unieran a formar el esplendor de la nación purhépecha, una enorme bola de fuego apareció en el cielo. Haciéndose cada vez mayor chocó y estremeció la tierra en la región ahora conocida como Michoacán. Eso aterrorizó a los habitantes. En el lugar del impacto, un fértil valle en las montañas, brotó un manantial de agua que llenó una gran cuenca, formandose así el lago de Pátzcuaro y sus islas.

En la isla llamada Yunuén habitó un noble y gran señor respetado por los lugareños, quién tenía una hija llamada Hapunda. El pueblo de Yunuén la quería mucho por su belleza y la dulzura de su carácter. Hapunda consagró mucho de su tiempo a contemplar la belleza del lago y a conversar con las olas en el espejo de su superficie. El lago ha sido el rey y el centro de los pueblos que lo rodean. La princesa y el lago se unieron de tal manera que Hapunda prometió jamás abandonarlo.

Pero una tarde, cuando una barcaza cruzó desde la orilla hasta la isla Yunuén, la superficie del lago se agitó con gran violencia. En ella viajaba un guerrero viejo, feo y repugnante. El se presentó ante el padre de Hapunda ofreciéndole, al inicio, bellos y suntuosos regalos para luego intimidarlo con amenazas exigiendo le concediera a su hija en matrimonio. Apesar de que su vida corría peligro, el padre de Hapunda no dudó al responder que sería su hija quién debería decidir su proprio destino y que él no la forzaría a aceptar tal unión. Sin embargo para salvar la vida de su padre, la princesa Hapunda aceptó la insólita proposición.

En tanto se hacían las preparaciones para el matrimonio, la princesa fue al lago y ahí lloró de tal manera que sus lágrimas en torrente cayeron al agua. Hapunda contó al lago su tristezas, el verse presionada a abandonar su lago y su temor de perder la protección que su anciano padre le brindaba. Respondiendo desde sus profundidades, el lago hizo surgir su voz para recordarle su promesa y ofreciendo a Hapunda la opción de quedarse junto a él para siempre. Le dijo que se vistiera de blanco y en una noche iluminada por la luna, así ataviada se arrojara a sus aguas.

Y así fue que, una noche encendida por la gran luna plateada, navegando tranquila sobre la espejada superficie, la Princesa Hapunda se embarcó hasta el centro del lago. Ahí se fue sumergiendo hasta hundirse en el fondo, donde se transformó en una guardiana eterna del lago. La luna emitió un rayo que acertó en el punto en donde Hapunda se había sumergido en el agua y fue en ese mismo lugar donde surgió una gran ave cubierta de plumas blancas. Así nació la garza. Desde ese entonces las garzas del lago de Pátzcuaro siempre vuelan a la orilla de la isla de Yunuén hasta el lugar que Hapunda prefería. En nuestro tiempo a la hora diaria del crepúsculo, cuando el atardecer va transformándose en la noche, las garzas siempre vuelven a la isla de Yunuén.

Cuentan… que el día que desaparezcan sus garzas, también desaparecerá el Lago de Pátzcuaro.

Reference: Soto González, Enrique. Pátzcuaro Legendario. 1983, Talleres de Impresos Hurtado, Morelia, Michoacan, Mexico

Visitor Notes on Yunuen

Visiting Yunuen: http://mypatzcuaro.blogspot.com/2008_11_01_archive.html

Yunuen Island - Egret Rookery

On 25 October 2008, we were invited to visit Yunuén on Lake Pátzcuaro, to meet a Purhepecha family and visit the island. We set out driving through Tzurumútaro, passed Ucazanáztacua (how's that for a mouthful?), and were met at the Pacanda Muelle for our motor-canoe visit to Yunuén.

Although this was not ostensibly a birding trip we, of course, went armed with our Howell book and binoculars. We were told that Yunén has the only egret rookery of the lake. Trees, bushes, flowers and orchids cover the island--good bird habitat. We didn't see any new or endemic species with the time we sandwiched in to birdwatch, but certainly enjoyed birds to include Snowy Egret, Little Blue Heron, an American Bittern in flight, Vermilion Flycatcher, Curve-Billed Thrasher, Finches, Warblers and more.

We will definitely schedule a full day birding trip with fellow birders. Alma Arias Navarrete, the Patzcuaro friend who took us, can also arrange with the Purhépecha family for overnights in nice cabins with kitchens--this is another target trip.

For an online visit:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/tracyzeye/sets/72157608404149031/

Live in Patzcuaro: http://novinger.com/patz-homes.htm

Who's Who in Michoacan Birding

Left to right: Dottie Yturri, Georgia Conti, Dr. Laura Eugenia Villaseñor Gómez,

Dr. Fernando Villaseñor Gómez, Tracy Novinger

We recently had the pleasure of meeting with the premier authorities on the avifauna of Michoacán, who visited us in Pátzcuaro. Dr. Laura Eugenia Villaseñor Gómez, ornithologist, and Dr. Fernando Villaseñor Gómez, bird ecologist, are a brother and sister who are both professors at the Universidad Michoacana San Nicolás Hidalgo in Morelia.

These two professors come from a large family whose father always took his ten children on camping and nature outings. Because of the love of nature instilled in them, four of the children are now biologists, and most of the brothers and sisters help with the Doctors Villaseñor's numerous avifauna projects. The father is a painter and illustrator of the birds of Michoacán, and Dr. Laura Villaseñor is currently working on a book of his artwork which will be published next year. We eagerly look forward to celebrating this event and to seeing this important work.

Georgia Conti is a Seattle Audubon Master Birder who now resides in Arocutin/Pátzcuaro, Michoacan. The Pátzcuaro Birding Club benefits greatly from her expertise and passion for birding.

Dottie Yturri is a visiting birder from Marble Falls, Texas, who came to experience birds, the wonderful mountain climate and the beauty of Patzcuaro and surrounding areas. She was accompanied by her husband, retired Judge Ed Yturri (not pictured).

Glen and Tracy Novinger bird from their home in Pátzcuaro.

Birding Cerro Burro, near Patzcuaro

Yesterday, the first lengthy stop of a full day outing was at Cerro Burro. The best two birds for me were the Red Warbler and the Cinnamon-bellied Flowerpiercer.

The white spot on the Red Warbler was very visible.

I got a good, close look at this bird at an altitude of 10,726 feet.

We were also treated to this Tree Frog.
Georgia of http://patzcuarobirder.blogspot.com/, Mike "the Herp Guy", Ed and Dottie of Marble Falls TX, and Glen and Tracy made a good day of it.

We finished up at Arroyo Frio, south of Tacámbaro, where the Russet-crowned Motmot did not disappoint us.

Field Trip to Ejido Lands of Arocutin

Green-tailed Towhee

On Thursday, 11 September 2009, Georgia Conti will lead the Patzcuaro Birding Club on a field trip to the ejido lands/Mal País of Arocutín. The trip will depart from the Campestre Alemán Restaurant on the southwest side of Lake Patzcuaro. See Patzcuaro Birder for more details.